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The dress code on the invitation said “Black Tie”.
Giorgio Armani, a man who does nothing in half measures, pulled out all the stops for his first show in New York in ten years—and he asked all of us to dress accordingly. Even without a dress code, it would have felt wrong not to get decked out in honor of the designer who invented a revolutionary kind of slick, sensual glamour. We were there last night, at The Park Avenue Armory, to pay respect to the maestro.
At 90 years old, Mr. Armani remains a visionary, one who single-handedly built a world out of the idea that everyone should look and feel as beautiful as possible at all times. The house codes he formulated provided the blueprint for a very distinct modern wardrobe, one that is as sharp as it is practical, sophisticated as it is wearable. As he told Bazaar contributor Osman Ahmed for our October issue just ahead of his big return to the U.S.: “America, and New York in particular, is where I found my first real audience—a whole generation of men and women eager to represent themselves in a new way.”
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He’s always believed that one should live in that beauty and sophistication, too. The occasion of the runway show coincided with the opening of a massive new Armani building on Madison Avenue, which houses a restaurant, store, and Casa Armani-decorated residences.
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Last night, guests gathered at the Armory for a double-header Armani extravaganza: a party to celebrate the new building project (Chaka Khan performed!) and a showing of Mr. Armani’s Spring 2025 collection (he skipped the Milan calendar this season to show in New York). Guests entered the Armory to find it had been transformed into a film noir-ish train station with a giant “GA” logo’d clock hanging above the room and a bar at the center dolling out champagne flutes. There were editors in black velvet tuxedos, a Spanish princess in a floral applique bolero and matching gown, and Huma Abedin in a beaded top and silk trousers. As people sipped and chatted in their finest Armani, a loud train whistle blew, signaling that the show would start in just a few minutes. Then, a curtain lifted to reveal the runway. Celebrities like Amanda Seyfried, Brie Larson, Brooke Shields, and Pamela Anderson were seated in ivory club-car-style booths that lined the imposing room, sparsely decorated with small tables and lamps and a matching cream-colored carpet.
The show began and the clothes immediately took the attention away from all of the sleek spectacle. It was a parade of Mr. Armani’s most celebrated wanderlust references, from Eastern and desert influences to exotic embroideries; polished, oversized suits; and fluid fabrics. Each of the 89 looks were imbued with a feeling of freedom and movement—a man’s knit tie looked as though it had been kicked back behind his shoulder by a gust of wind, while a woman’s fringy skirt, crafted with Mr. Armani’s signature precision, whooshed by with an effortless grace.
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Unfettered elegance, as always in the Armaniverse, was abundant. The designer showed a grouping of blushy-beige looks that included a bloomer-bermuda short hybrid and draped dresses, all formed perfectly to the body. The show opened with a model being trailed by a man dressed as a train porter carrying suitcases, and closed with a woman in a sheer, 1930s-style beaded tank gown being trailed by three devastatingly handsome men in suit jackets adorned with crystal lapels.
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These kinds of cinematic, playful gestures are as much a part of Mr. Armani’s dialogue as his chic, effortless clothes, and last night’s collection felt like a love letter from the designer to himself, to the iconic brand he’s cultivated and the journey that it’s taken him on over the course of four decades. As Mr. Armani’s show notes read, this collection was about traversing “an era full of visions and memories, merging with various styles and ways of dressing, and once again speaking to the present.”
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That’s the magic of Mr. Armani: to create timelessness while continuing to evolve, no matter the time, age, or place. In New York last night, we dressed correctly to celebrate the newness of Armani, but more importantly, to celebrate the inimitable human force behind it all— a man for whom black tie isn’t just a dress code, but a way of life.
Giorgio Armani Spring 2025
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Brooke Bobb is the fashion news director at Harper’s Bazaar, working across print and digital platforms. Previously, she was a senior content editor at Amazon Fashion, and worked at Vogue Runway as senior fashion news writer.
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