Emporio Armani: Dashing from the Dolomites

Giorgio Armani began his latest dashing Emporio Armani show with a series of climbers and hikers, as if back from the Dolomites, the Alpine Mountain range north of his hometown of Piacenza.

See catwalkEmporio Armani – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Designers have been referencing ramblers a lot this season, but nobody created as much mountaineering mode as Giorgio. The nonagenarian designer is still scaling peaks, as this Saturday evening show in Milan’s menswear season made abundantly clear.

His models marching by in hiking boots, bearing icepicks, climbing ropes, mountaineering glasses and enormous backpacks for a week-long ascent. Wearing nylon pants, hefty puffers and massive frilled scarves. Definitely not escapists, their whole look was done in mottled mixes of bitter yellow, deep purple and orange.

Armani clearly loves an active man but when he returns to the city, his gent has plenty of seductive swagger. As he suddenly changed gears with a series of languid looks, led by two sensational velvet three-piece suits, one in silvery swamp green the other in shiny anthracite. Made with one button jackets, wrap-around gilets and billowing high-waisted pleated pants. What guy would not want to look that polished? The two models acted like they had just won a jackpot. And stylistically they had.
 
The mood was one of a swish new nightclub, like the designer’s own Armani Privé, or The Wilde, a chic new central Milan art club in Santo Versace’s former home, near the Armani Hotel. Ever in the wake of Brexit, thousands of financial types have fled London, and many of ended up in Milan. This wardrobe looks ideal clobber for these new arrivals.

See catwalkEmporio Armani – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Menswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
When the evenings turned chilly, Armani proposed what he termed “animalier.”  At least a half-dozen looks, in remarkably convincing faux fur, from a long-haired cheetah blouson to a shaggy wolf aviator jacket. And all sorts of furry scarves or collars topping some great new coats or trench-coats cut like A-line capes – in some novel tailoring.
 
Aiding the atmosphere was a great soundtrack blending spacy funk with Arabian Gulf trance – with a mix of Okoa Remix by Ben & Vincent or Kingdom of Dust by Yemanjo.  The cosmopolitan mood heightened by a natty array of headgear – Nehru hats, French berets, and Malaysian fishermen’s caps. 
 
Plus, Emporio boasted a rich array of worn leather coats and workerist jackets, along with super chic embroidered tuxedos – offering a fresh and formidable wardrobe in a powerful fashion statement. By a designer who keeps growing and experimenting impulsively and proudly. 
 
Winning Giorgio a huge round of applause, by an audience that included actors Toby Wallace, Zeng Shunxi and Matteo Oscar Giuggioli; singers Aidan Bissett and Pierre de Maere; and hipster model Lennon Gallagher, son of Oasis frontman, Liam.
 
Armani taking his bow alone, smiling and clearly loving the clapping, cheers and cries of “Bravo!”
 

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