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Louis Vuitton’s High Jewelry Collection Honors 19th-Century Innovation

The Victorie necklace from the Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry … [+] collection

©Laziz_Hamani

“Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds” by Louis Vuitton and its creative director, Francesca Amfitheatrof, is the second in a series of high jewelry collections inspired by the innovations of craftsmanship and science in 19th century France. It consists of seven themes and 50 pieces, featuring a proprietary diamond shape and strategically placed large colored gems.

Many of themes are based on open-worked techniques and designs and the leading piece in each theme is the necklace, most of which are bold and striking. The brand isn’t stating it but there is Art Deco influences in the openworked geometric patterns. It does make sense as the themes are largely based on important engineering and architectural monuments.

Victorie

For example, the leading theme in the collection is titled, “Victorie,” inspired by the Eiffel Tower (top photo). The collection represented nearly 4,000 hours of work, Louis Vuitton said.

The hero piece in this motif is the high collared necklace, constructed using openworked platinum and yellow gold to recreate the architecture of the famous monument. However, to maintain its relation to the brand, the intricate patterns form a “V” in the center of the piece.

The main gems in this elaborate necklace are a 10.43-carat D-color internally flawless diamond and a 3.08-carat D-color internally flawless diamond. Both shaped into a proprietary “LV Monogram Star” shape. Running the length of the multitiered tiered necklace, are 33 yellow diamonds.

Complementing the necklace are white gold pendant earrings featuring 5.05-carat and 5.07-carat yellow diamonds. Each earring is further enhanced with a 1.09-carat LV Monogram Star diamond and additional diamonds.

Completing the collection is a bracelet with the same openworked V-shaped design as the necklace featuring a 3.98-carat yellow diamond, and a ring centered with 2.56-carat diamond.

Vision

The Vision Necklace from the Louis Vuitton ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry collection

©Laziz Hamani

“Vision,” is based on 19th century railroads, the backbone of the industrial revolution and the opening of widescale travel in Europe. Louis Vuitton says the hero necklace interprets railroad tracks to articulate each tier of the multi-stranded jewel crafted of platinum, yellow gold and diamonds. Among the interwoven diamonds, a 50.01-carat octagonal step-cut yellow Sri Lankan sapphire. Below the sapphire and cradled in the diamond-set V design pattern is a 3.07-carat LV Monogram Star cut diamond. The Vision necklace is complemented by similarly designed bracelets, earrings and rings.

Dynamisme

The Dynamisme necklace from the Louis Vuitton ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry … [+] collection

©Laziz Hamani

The next collection titled, “Dynamisme,” presents a 3D effect using a two-strand, open chevron motif that places an emphasis on technical prowess. Louis Vuitton likens the crafted pattern of the collection to the innerworkings of a bicycle or engine. The links work in tandem to relay their visual effect. The use of platinum and yellow gold accentuates the triangular contrast. Angularly set in yellow gold, the round diamonds reference Louis Vuitton’s “V” in a domino effect that leads the eye to two strategically placed 1.59 carat LV Monogram Star cut diamonds. Again, the same design can be found in bracelet, earrings, and rings.

Gravité

The Gravité necklace from Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry collection

©Laziz Hamani

The “Gravité” collection uses precious metals as “conduits,” the luxury brand said, playing with different settings and diamond cuts. Rectangular, triangular and round pave set diamonds line the precious metal strands, threading and overlapping to form a V shaped pendant that holds a detachable 6.48 carat Kashmir sapphire, as well as two additional 4.38- and 2.13-carat Kasmir sapphires above. This white gold diamond and sapphire necklace required 2,058 hours of work. In addition, a three-stranded collared necklace mimics the interplay of geometric patterns and overlay, featuring a 27.20-carat star sapphire is hypnotizing. Rings and bracelets round out the collection.

Élégance

The Élégance bracelet from Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry collection

©Nathaniel Goldberg

For the “Élégance” collection, a white gold and LV Monogram Star cut diamond in woven trellis patterns is the dominate design theme for a headband worn across the forehead, a transformable bracelet, two pairs of earrings and a brooch.

Phénoménal

The Phénoménal necklace from Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry … [+] collection

©Nathaniel Goldberg

Inspired by France’s art of porcelain, “Phénoménal” uses famed latticework, ornate details and colorful layers to create a rope motif. It reaffirms Amfitheatrof’s signature use of bold and geometric articulation in a necklace rich in Louis Vuitton iconography. Rounded in a pattern of interlaced diamond set baguettes, threaded links of diamond set rings, the design’s central strand is woven in gold and diamonds to form the luxury brand’s signature “V.” Below an LV Monogram Star cut diamond, is a 7.44-carat Colombian emerald. The same open weave motif is used for complementary necklaces, bracelet, rings and earrings.

Men’s Compass Watch Pendant

The compass watch pendant from Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry … [+] collection

©Nathaniel Goldberg

New to the high jewelry collection, is the men’s capsule piece: a compass watch pendant necklace on a chain. Diamond paved metals in alternating patterns with straight and curved lines surround the compass face. The caseback is further enhanced with a 2.71- and a 2.16-carat tsavorites. The top of the diamond-paved chain is anchored by a 4.55 carat tsavorite.

Splendeur

The Splendeur necklace from Louis Vuitton’s ‘Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds’ high jewelry collection

©Laziz Hamani

The “Splendeur” pendant necklace is inspired by the ornate craftsmanship of France’s imperial palaces. The floral motifs embedded in the era’s royal furnishings inspire Louis Vuitton’s iconic Monogram flower. Accented by openwork patterns, the petals in the pendant’s design have alternating patterns of yellow gold and platinum with diamond pinpricks that highlight the flower’s anatomy and movements. Central to the pendant’s iconic motif, are Mozambique rubies totaling 8.69 carats. Anchored by another ruby, the diamond and gold chain provide a sense of balance to the overall piece. The collection is complemented by matching rings and earrings.



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