Amazon warriors at Dior, and Saint Laurent looks to Yves’ own wardrobe

It was a largely monochromatic collection, with a sporty focus. One-shoulder tops appeared frequently, presumably in an allusion to the notion that Amazon warrior women cut one breast to make archery easier. Leotards, blazers and shirts came with a single shoulder strap or an exposed shoulder, while leotards with glittering fringes were worn with gladiator-boot trainers. Other utilitarian designs included wide black cargo pants, little bomber jackets with straps and buckles, and jogging bottoms with stripes down the side, but it was a shame not to see more of the elegance and structure with which Dior is synonymous.

There was more of an emphasis on tailoring this season at Saint Laurent, where Vaccarello said backstage that he had listened to an interview with Yves Saint Laurent himself from the early 2000s, in which the late founder said that the Saint Laurent woman is him. So Vacarello took this literally, reinterpreting the kinds of suits, trenchcoats, shirts and ties worn by Yves, for women. The backstage moodboard was covered in photos of Yves, including one in the same pose as a sketch by Andy Warhol, and even fabric samples of tie prints.

This wasn’t the slinky tuxedo tailoring synonymous with Saint Laurent, but more an early ’80s business look. Models walked around an open-air circular catwalk slicked with raindrops, wearing oversized jackets, many double-breasted, with wide-leg trousers in shades of charcoal, sand and beige, teamed with striped shirts and patterned ties.

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