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Chanel Haute Couture SS25 Review: Pure Joie De Vivre
Chanel’s Spring Couture runway was inspired by “infinite movement,” a description that perfectly encapsulated a lively collection all about unlocking the ease, fun, and joie de vivre behind those two interlocked Cs.
The looks were arranged based on a day’s lunar cycle. The runway started with shimmering takes on staple tweed suits—one in a watercolour rainbow wash—worn with low-slung, slightly flared minis.
It was all slightly coquettish, this girlish feeling enhanced by playful bows and colour-matched Mary Janes. We could feel ourselves skipping into the office in these sets. Then, there were the bold flashes of jewel tones in silk shirts and lined suits. As we’ve seen in fashion recently, designers are references from multiple decades, resulting in looks that feel era-agnostic and totally contemporary. Exaggerated shoulders, bold colours, and sequins felt like 80s references, while dropped waists, “buttoned to the top” collars, and sweet bows felt like 1940s, and the result was totally original. The beauty helped – a bare-bones, fresh, complected raw crimson and hair in tousled pixie cuts and waves added to the vibrancy and movement on the runway.
One of our favourite looks was Alex Consani in a butter yellow shirt dress with a playful ruff, strolling hands in pockets, a slash of crimson on her lips and burnt flush on her cheeks. It felt both romantic and energetic, a modern-day Picnic On Hanging Rock heroine.
Chanel’s studio team designed the spring collection as they anticipate the arrival of new Creative Director Matthieu Blazy. For the house, it was about exploring heritage and stressing the vibrancy inherent to the house (but sometimes forgotten). “Chanel is not just black and white,” Bruno Pavlosvsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS stressed to WWD. After all, CoCo Chanel herself was famously full of je ne sais quoi, stepping outside tradition to dress the modern woman, as are the “modern girls” now attached to the house: Lily Rose-Depp, Margaret Qualley and most recently Gracie Abrahms. Or, their front row guests who included a loved-up Kylie Jenner, whose sweetheart Oscar-nommed Timothée Chalamet recently rocked a Chanel bag in Paris and a possibly engaged Dua Lipa (we’re waiting).
Evening wear had a diaphanous quality full of sheer floating fabrics, voluminous statement-making silks, several twinling lapis lazuli gowns, and two looks that made a bold argument for the return of the statement cape in 2025.
Even the doll-like bride looked ready to lift her veil and head on an adventure post-ceremony.
It will be an exciting year for Chanel, with Blazy taking the reigns in April. The Paris Couture Spring runway showed us just how ready the house is to leap into the future.
Here are some of our favourite looks from the collection.
Chanel SS25 Haute Couture
Ruby Feneley
Senior Writer, Fashion + Beauty
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