A to-do list for Gucci’s next creative director

The incoming creative director needs to re-engage consumers in the world of Gucci, Chabbi continues. “Consumers need to feel like these designs make them part of a significant and culturally affluent group of people. A product without solid storytelling is too unanimous. Sometimes dividing consumers is the way to make them feel like they’re part of something bigger,” he says.

Some observers feel there’s a middle ground to be struck between Gucci’s two recent extremes. “The identity of the new designer will be key in redefining the brand’s aesthetics, perhaps halfway between classic/understated elegance and fashion-forwardness,” wrote Citi managing director Thomas Chauvet in a note.

Gucci’s talent strategy under De Sarno was akin to his design, centred around broad appeal, like Gladiator II star Paul Mescal and his Normal People co-star Daisy Edgar-Jones, or established style icons like Solange Knowles and Mariacarla Boscono. Michele managed to tap unique young talents like Billie Eilish and Harry Styles early into their solo careers, outfitting them in Gucci as they hit the stratosphere and making them near-synonymous with the house.

Some feel the next creative director should hone the brand’s community and explore more unique talents, to reflect its values and DNA. “Under De Sarno’s creative direction, I have been totally unable to identify who the brand catered to — even ambassadors were a blurry topic to me,” Chabbi says. “I can’t remember much aside from the Bad Bunny x Kendall Jenner campaign when it comes to marketing.”

Rethink the product assortment

While De Sarno’s reissue of the Gucci Jackie bag did bear fruit, critics feel the house needs to rethink its product assortment to course correct, launching newness in leather goods and shoes. “You need essential items in every category that are well merchandised, with a broad price range,” says luxury analyst Robert Burke of Robert Burke Associates.

Lest we forget the power of entry-level footwear: the furry hybrid Gucci loafer, which went viral shortly after Michele’s appointment in 2015, remained a hero item for the years that followed. “One of Gucci’s strengths has always been being able to bring in a customer through shoes or through a handbag, before ultimately converting them into ready-to-wear customers,” Burke adds. “That strategy is still very valid today.”

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