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As part of its sustainability commitment, Chanel has launched Nevold, an independent division focused on recycling and waste management.
The venture aims to transform pre-consumer waste, such as textile offcuts, unused fabrics, and unsold products, into new materials that can be reused in luxury fashion and beyond.
“We started by asking ourselves what happens to the materials that don’t make it into a final product, or those that reach the end of their first life,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, in an interview with Vogue Business.
“At Chanel, we didn’t destroy unsold products. But we also didn’t yet have a real system to understand their full potential. Nevold is that system.”
Research and development for Nevold – short for “never old” – began in 2019, but the brand gradually built its capabilities in textile recycling and waste management, leading to this year’s formal launch.
Led by Sophie Brocart, former CEO of LVMH-owned Patou, the project plans to work not just with Chanel’s waste streams but also with other brands and industries, including hospitality and sportswear, to give materials a second life.
WWD reports that Chanel is investing between US$54 million to $86 million to position Nevold as both a B2B service provider and an innovation hub for circular solutions in the fashion industry.
At its core, the initiative brings together several companies acquired or established by Chanel, including L’Atelier des Matieres (which dismantles and sorts materials), Filatures du Parc (a spinning mill specialising in recycled yarns), and Authentic Material (a specialist in upcycling natural materials).
However, Nevold will operate independently from Chanel’s main fashion division and its Metiers d’Art workshops.
“Chanel is too small on its own to build the scale this requires,” Pavlovsky explains. “That’s why we created a separate, open platform that can bring others in.”
While Nevold is currently a cost centre, Chanel sees it as a strategic investment in the future of the industry.
“It’s not a big business yet,” Pavlovsky acknowledged. “But it’s something I believe that we’ll talk more and more about.”
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