Chanel scales up its production network nationwide in Italy

Image Courtesy: Chanel

Chanel is gradually strengthening its production network through a series of strategic acquisitions, with a strong emphasis on Italy—Europe’s luxury production hub—where the brand has nearly 20 production bases.

Its most recent step involves a 20% minority holding in Tuscan tannery Conceria Nuova Impala, following its recent purchase of a 35% stake in Como-based silk specialist Mantero Seta. These investments, Chanel said, are to support long-standing partners such as Nuova Impala, with which it has worked for more than a decade. The firm noted that these companies will remain serving other customers independently.

Established in 1958, Nuova Impala specialises in high-quality calf leathers for luxury footwear and leather accessories with the aid of traditional tanning techniques mixed with ecological innovation. It has 37 employees and achieved US $ 24.1 million in turnover and US $1.37 million in earnings in 2024.

With increasing demand for ultra-premium leathers, Chanel has been concentrating production in France and Italy. These include the full acquisition of Conceria Gaiera Giovanni (100% acquired in 2024), Samanta (acquired in 2019), and more recent investments in Blupell, Co.Fa Srl, and a joint venture in Volfoni set up by Alsatian tanneries Haas and Campelli in partnership with Volpi Concerie in 2023.

Chanel has followed suit in knitwear and shoes. It expanded its hosiery operations by allowing Paima (bought in 2021) to acquire a majority stake in local Samo Cotton in 2024. At shoes, Roveda—bought in 2000 and now wholly owned—is expanding with the addition of Ibisco and Primula, both rolled out in 2023. The company also bought long-time supplier Grey Mer in 2024, widening its presence in luxury shoe hub San Mauro Pascoli.

The group also invested in the leather goods sector through companies such as Renato Corti (2019) and Mabi International (100% owned in 2023), which has factories in Veneto and Tuscany.

Outside leather and fashion, Chanel is extending strengths in other sectors. It has a 60% stake in jeansmaker FashionArt (2022), a minority stake in cashmere spinner Cariaggi (2023), and also controls Piedmont-based fancy yarn producer Vimar 1991 (acquired 2020). In silk, it recently bought Como-based Biseta outright, adding to its Mantero stake. In early 2025, it also acquired a minority stake in Leo France, a Tuscan costume jewellery and metal accessories company.

As of 31st December 2024, Chanel had 29 subsidiaries in Italy across production, distribution, marketing, and logistics, employing more than 2,500 people. The group’s deepening Italian presence reflects its long-term commitment to craftsmanship, vertical integration, and supply chain resilience.

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