Flavor becomes Dubai’s new signature

EBRU ERKE

I was in Dubai last week for the Michelin Awards, where two restaurants earned three stars — an unprecedented milestone that marks the city’s arrival as a serious global culinary spot, driven by deep-rooted diversity.

It was clear: Dubai has made remarkable culinary strides in a short time. Alongside acclaimed chefs from France, Peru, India and Japan, there’s now a rising wave of Arab chefs drawing inspiration from Lebanon, Palestine and Yemen — and making their mark on this dynamic city.

The entire team had been gathered under the pretext of a photoshoot. The chef was seated in the center on a chair, surrounded by staff from both the kitchen and the front of the house. Then suddenly, the door opened—and in walked Gwendal Poullennec, the International Director of the Michelin Guide. As everyone stared at him in stunned silence, he began to speak: “I’m here today to share some wonderful news with you.” (At this point, the silence deepened even further…) “Congratulations—you now have three stars.”

What followed was a scene of pure emotion: team members embracing in tears, others screaming, some still frozen in disbelief. It was an extraordinary moment—something you rarely, if ever, see. Michelin revealing the result before the ceremony, and doing so in person? Unheard of. But this was no ordinary award. This was the moment when Trèsind Studio became the first Indian restaurant in the world to receive three Michelin stars. Michelin wanted to mark the occasion with a gesture as exceptional as the milestone itself.

Later that evening, just before Chef Himanshu Saini was called on stage at the Michelin ceremony, the video of that surprise announcement was played for all to witness—and we were lucky enough to be in the room to experience it.

Last week, I traveled to Dubai as a guest of the Dubai Tourism Board to attend the fourth edition of the Michelin Awards. Without revealing where we were going, they took us to two restaurants on two separate nights — both of which ended up receiving three stars. Visiting the restaurants, speaking with the chefs, speculating about the results and then witnessing those same establishments being named Dubai’s first-ever three-star restaurants was an unforgettable experience in itself. The restaurants were Trèsind Studio and FZN by Björn Frantzén. I won’t try to summarize them here — they each deserve their own deep dive, which I’ll save for a separate article. So instead, let me share some overall reflections.

Trèsind’s achievement represents more than a single restaurant’s success. It’s a landmark moment for Indian cuisine and Dubai’s culinary scene. Until now, Indian food has often been seen as either casual comfort fare or “not quite refined enough” for haute cuisine status. Trèsind dismantles that perception entirely. By marrying traditional Indian flavors with modern techniques, the restaurant takes guests on a culinary journey across the subcontinent — while expanding the boundaries of what Indian cuisine can be, even by Michelin’s highest standards.

As for FZN by Björn Frantzén, the fact that it was awarded three stars only seven months after opening marks one of the most impressive entries in Michelin’s history. A lightning-fast ascent that will surely be remembered for years to come.

The fact that two restaurants in Dubai were awarded three Michelin stars this year marks a turning point in the region’s culinary history. Cities granted Michelin’s highest honor no longer stand out solely for their cuisine, but for the cultural and economic infrastructure that sustains it. Dubai didn’t cross that threshold quietly; it took the stage and made itself impossible to ignore.

Just four years ago, the question was whether Dubai was “ready” for Michelin. Today, that question has evolved: “Where does Dubai want to take this story next?” Because this is no longer just about great chefs creating beautiful plates—it’s about how a region chooses to tell its own narrative through gastronomy.

The global media response after the awards ceremony was equally telling. Some headlines proclaimed that “the capital of luxury is becoming the capital of flavor,” while others offered more cautious praise, noting that “Dubai is still about spectacle — but now, it’s finally filling in the substance.” Either way, the message was clear: Michelin’s spotlight on Dubai signals a shift in the global gastronomic ecosystem. New culinary epicenters are no longer confined to the West.

So what exactly has drawn this attention to Dubai? In my view, its greatest strength lies in its extraordinary diversity. Here, you’ll find not only standout representatives of Arab cuisine but also remarkable interpretations of culinary traditions from India to Japan and from France to Peru. And this presence isn’t limited to overseas branches — many chefs have relocated to Dubai, opening original restaurants and telling new stories from this city. Because Dubai still offers a generous, fast-moving market for culinary investment.

This has led many to compare Dubai to London. Is that accurate? In part, yes. Like London, Dubai has grown by embracing immigrant cuisines. It, too, has built a fine dining culture nourished by finance. But there’s a key difference: Dubai treats gastronomy as a showcase — just like architecture or fashion. In that sense, it’s often more dazzling and more theatrical than London.

But we shouldn’t view this theatrical flair in one dimension. While there is an undeniably glitzy fine dining scene, there’s also a growing visibility of local flavors and street food culture. Emirati cuisine, for instance, is finding its voice in heartfelt venues like Bait Maryam. Chefs at places like Orfali Bros are crafting menus that spotlight local ingredients and push the limits of what the desert can offer. A new generation of Arab chefs inspired by Lebanese, Palestinian and Yemeni traditions is beginning to resonate louder in the city.

So Dubai isn’t just importing global flavors — it’s also reconnecting with its own culinary memory. In short, Dubai is on its way to becoming a shining star on the world’s gastronomic map. It’s not yet as mature as Paris or Tokyo, but its youthful energy is hard to ignore. And perhaps, that very youth and hunger is its greatest advantage.

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