Georgian designer Demna debuts for Gucci in Milan

MILAN – Maverick Georgian designer Demna makes his debut for Gucci at Milan Fashion Week on Tuesday with a film of a family of Italian characters bursting with attitude, as the house pledged a “new era” its history.

The 44-year-old took over at Gucci in July after a decade at fellow Kering brand Balenciaga, charged with helping reverse falling sales.

Demna, who goes by one name, said it was too soon for a full catwalk show this season, but unveiled a series of looks on Monday that will feature in a film premiering on Tuesday night.

Presented as portraits of “La Famiglia” (“The Family”), the mixed men and women’s collection takes a humorous look at stereotypes such as the diva, the influencer, the narcissist and the mama’s boy.

There are knock-out red-carpet gowns, thigh-skimming fake fur coats, chic outfits, sheer vests and minis, classic accessories and more than a nod to Tom Ford’s past reign.

“To me, all these archetypes represent the Gucci crowd, the customers of Gucci in the future who will each of them be able to find something in the collection they can relate to,” Demna told fashion outlet WWD in an interview published Monday.

The looks will feature in a film, “The Tiger”, directed by acclaimed filmmakers Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, although the details are still under wraps.

The collection, which the label said “marks the genesis of a new Gucci era”, will be on sale at 10 boutiques across the world.

Some analysts have questioned whether Demna’s recipe for success at Balenciaga — which leaned heavily on showmanship and streetwear-influenced design — would work in his new job.

But he dismissed this as “superficial”, telling WWD: “Why would I come to Gucci to do what I’ve done before?”

“If someone thinks that I will come here and do an oversize bomber with a GG monogram, it means they didn’t understand anything about my work until now,” he said.

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