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Maria Grazia Chiuri seemed enamoured with dreams and the subconscious at her Paris Couture week show for Dior, with sweet, escapist, and softly surreal pieces.
While the individual designs drew on classic regency and Victorian shapes and fabrics, the styling was modern with unexpected silhouettes and fabrics, such as a tailcoat layered over ruffled diamonte mini and bustier or gladiator-style ballet flats.
Chiuri is known for creating collections that speak directly to women. It’s been ten years since she sent models down the runway wearing slogan T-shirts reading “We Should All Be Feminist.” The Dior woman is now wandering in a changed world.
As such, the collection had a haunting quality. The designer said she took inspiration from a Surrealist art exhibition held at the Pompidou Center in Paris, the romantic and dreamlike works of Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning, which feature young women sleepwalking, and references to Alice in Wonderland, the ultimate dreamer.
While exquisite Pinterest-trending Rococo was present, and the influence of Bridgerton (Nicola Coughlan sat front row) could be seen the colour palette was full of soft taupes, blush pink silks like faded rose petals and black along with worn textures contrasting with silks and chiffons: raffia silks, straw and horsehair ribbons and exposed constructions. The aesthetic was tinged with the drama and dark romance of Lily-Rose Depp’s Victorian wardrobe in Nosferatu; perhaps a wardrobe for heroin taking overcoming the monster of her her nightmares.
Collection notes described creating a space of ‘total freedom, as if the mirrors that fill the couture studio could, similar to Alice’s looking glass, allow access to another reality.” This other reality seemed like a moment of reflective escape for the Dior woman, who mohawked navigates her private dreamscape in flowered bodices that melted into sheer hooped skirts that floated like exoskeletons, mod-ish capes thickly adorned with feathers and lace broderie anglaise gowns cut away to expose briefs and enable swift movement.
Image: Tate Modern Dorathea Tanning’s A Little Night Music an example of the surrealist art that inspired the collection
As always, however dreamlike, Chiuri designs thoughtfully with the practical realities of a woman’s real life in mind. Sheer layers and thigh-skimming bloomers revealed plenty of flesh, but double-layered underpinnings and artfully placed embellishments kept designs teasingly revealing rather than impractical, and many pieces like 60s minis and coats were positively thrown on and gone.
The statement shoe, gladiatorial ballet slippers, summed up the message of the collection: a resilient woman wandering through the ashes of her girlhood, floating in an atmosphere of simmering unease and rebellion just right for the mood of this moment in time.
Model’s walked to Fred again… and Angie McMahon’s “light dark light” which is a song about learning to dance again, are suitable track as we navigate a changing and troubling world.
Dior Couture Spring 2025 Collection:
Below, some of our favourite moments from the show.
Ruby Feneley
Senior Writer, Fashion + Beauty
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