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The fall-winter season of menswear celebrated an ageless approach to clothing with a few unexpected detailing across ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories categories.
The Milan and Paris fashion weeks, besides the Pitti Uomo fair held in Florence, proposed a closet comprising tailoring in heritage textiles, shawl collared cardigans, turtlenecks and faux fur detailing. The recently concluded FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025 in Jaipur, too, saw designers like Antar-Agni, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Shantnu & Nikhil and Nirmooha incorporating drapery, deconstruction, and intricate surface texturing to celebrate the spirit of modern masculinity.
Here are some of the trends that have emerged from recent fashion shows:
A clash of textiles and textures
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From Antar-Agni show
BRB by Antar-Agni celebrated the interplay of contrasts– organic and raw, delicate yet powerful– where botanical printing brought nature into play. A snake-scale monogram added an edge of quiet power, and the delicate lace layer introduced a sense of depth. The colours drifted between spring and summer, striking a balance between warmth and freshness.
Nirmooha’s collection, on the other hand, featured deep indigos, faded crimsons, shadowed maroons, and muted teals. Denim clashed with crochet and soft knits reconciled strength with fragility.
Soft romanticism
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From ‘Mirage’
Shantnu & Nikhil unveiled Mirage, an exploration of resilience, reinvention and the fluidity of sartorial expression. The House’s signature aesthetic was distilled into fluid silhouettes, where leather accents carved rebellious edge, and asymmetry spoke the language of movement. Drapes, an intrinsic part of desert heritage, were reimagined, shifting from the shoulders to the bottoms.
Known for crystalline embellishments, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna sent out classic skinny silhouettes along with wide-leg, relaxed-fit trousers. The matador jacket, a hallmark of perpetual style in menswear was reimagined with an of-the-moment approach.
Stealth chic
One of the key highlights was the Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2025 marked by a collaboration between men’s creative directors Pharrell Williams and Nigo. Reflecting their shared love for streetwear, the collection’s silhouettes were inspired with memories of the early 2000s. Workwear silhouettes synonymous with engineers, chefs, gardeners were lent a formal, luxe touch.
Kim Jones’s last outing at Dior Men was centred around the architecture of Monsieur Dior’s “H-Line” haute couture collection of Fall 1954-55. The opening look was a voluminous pair of trousers which initially came across as a taffeta ball skirt too. However, it was a coat worn backwards.
Hermès menswear exemplified its Maison’s luxurious outerwear crafted in plush leather and luxurious knits. Chic winter layering with seasonless essentials like topcoats, toggle coats and car coats celebrated old money aesthetic.
Lounge formals
By merging textures and elements, heritage brands like Canali introduced the concept of lounge formal, evoking the comfort and familiarity of domestic spaces while infusing them with timeless sophistication and modern versatility. Paying homage to Brianza (known for high-end furniture making and the land where the brand operates), the collection drew inspiration from interiors—floor patterns, textures from design pieces, and unexpected material combinations. Tod’s offerings stood out thanks to the masterful usage of extraordinarily silky and lightweight leathers.
Faux fur is the new cashmere
From Dolce & Gabbana to Prada, designers extrapolated textiles like shearling and faux fur. Ami’s collection was generously peppered with shaggy accents, sometimes enveloping the collar of a parka and on the textured coats.
EgonLab’s take on the furry collars and cuffs was rather gothic something straight out of a Vampire series. Paul Smit showcased a green leather jacket with a shearling collar slightly evoking the ’70s. While Dolce & Gabbana’s fur pieces embodied an unapologetic Mob Husband energy, Prada and MSGM’s treatment of the shaggy textile embodied punk rebellion. At New York Fashion Week, Gabriela Hearst sent out a zip front fur jacket crafted by repurposing mink coats upcycled from Italy. Anthony Vaccarello had eighties on his mind as he dreamt up Saint Laurent’s boxy tailoring which came layered with feathered topcoats.
Classics return
Canali, Brunello Cucinelli and Brioni embraced shawl collar cardigans and evening jackets accented with shawl lapels. At Brioni, a shawl collar silk tuxedo in pale lavender with matching shirt and pocket square was the pièce de résistance. Hermès’ show saw a panoply of round-neck or high-neck pullovers in cashmere and wool besides round-neck pullovers in shaded bouclé wool and cashmere. Moreover, turtlenecks were prominently seen across Hermes, Tods, Armani, Boglioli, Canali and Brioni.
Nifty man bags
Louis Vuitton’s bags adapt the idea of biker jackets in waxy black leather silhouettes with flaps and zip pockets, aged gold metal hardware, and quilted red lining. They materialised across icons, as Speedy bags and a Keepall and introduced the new Slouchy Hobo. Exceptional editions included soft croc Speedys, one of which was covered in logo pins alongside a leather Rolling Trunk. Workwear bags with cargo pockets and a Monogram base were crafted from suede, nubuck and calfskin in earthy tones applied across icons exemplified in the Steamer and an exceptional Steamer in tan ostrich. Tod’s presented the Di Bag Folio in an oversize version, with a capacious and versatile structure suitable for every occasion, from work to leisure. A saddlery interpretation of the multi-pocket trekking backpack completed the offering.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
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