Show Review｜Louis Vuitton 2023 Autumn Winter Menswear Collection Opens a New Era | Hypebeast
The news that Colm Dillane, the principal of KidSuper, served as the guest designer of Louis Vuitton’s new season men’s wear has aroused the appetite of the public. As the highly anticipated Louis Vuitton 2023 autumn and winter men’s wear show officially came to an end at Paris Fashion Week last night, this season’s collaboration series featuring LV’s first guest designer was finally revealed.
This season is still the result of the cooperation of many creative people. The ready-to-wear collection is conceived by Colm Dillane, designed by Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme, and French filmmakers Michel Gondry and Olivier Gondry are responsible for the show installation design and video prologue, Spain Singer Rosalía was invited to be the music planner and performed live. Ibrahim Kamara, editor-in-chief of “Dazed” and new art director of Off-White™, was in charge of styling. Lina Kutsovskaya, founder of creative studio Be Good Studios, participated in creative planning. The latter two are long-term collaborators of the brand . This time, Hypebeast will take stock of the surprises worth noting in this season’s Louis Vuitton men’s wear show.
Show modeling and design highlights
Oil painting prints, colorful tones, large portraits… These design elements full of childishness, street, and cheerful atmosphere can be recognized by Colm Dillane at a glance. Interestingly, this design is very similar to the works of Virgil Abloh, and the dramatic show of KidSuper is also very similar to the narrative-focused shows of LV in the past. In other words, the design aesthetics and concepts of the two have something in common, and the former’s design has been integrated into LV’s past few seasons and it seems extremely harmonious.
This season’s theme focuses on exploring “Growing Up”, inspired by young men’s vision of “paternal masculinity”, destroying the metaphor of men’s designated clothing through oversized clothing. Most of LV’s design team members are millennials, so this season’s styles are mostly workwear and sportswear in their memory, showing neat and smooth lines. One of the models is covered with letters, and the handwriting is written by members of the design team. At the same time, this series focuses on the digital generation and human social interaction, and digitalizes pattern printing—using lines with a sense of speed, phantom embroidery made of pearls and sequins, arranged patterns such as encrypted codes, fuzzy fruit prints surrounded by white noise, injected The landscape image in the middle of the suit reflects the image of the digital age to trigger our thinking about what kind of imprint we leave in our lives. The collection also includes upcycled looks, divided into three categories: new styles made with recycled materials from stock; new styles upcycled from existing ideas; and reinterpretations of styles that have appeared in previous seasons.
Show Installation and Prologue Film
The short film “Growing Up” (Growing Up), co-directed by French filmmakers Michel Gondry and Oliver Gondry, kicked off the season’s show, continuing the inherent themes of the LV menswear collection: key growth periods, inner child and crossing regions and cultures . The movie scene switches from the birth of the protagonist to childhood, until the age of seven, fourteen, fifteen, and twenty, and the same objects appear again and again. These key elements are reproduced in the show sets: silver handbags, plush toys, toy cars and toy hard cases. In the prologue film, the main character suddenly becomes a teenager, and the alarm clock on the bedside table shows the opening time of the show at 2:30 pm (Paris time).
Friends who like movies should be familiar with Michel Gondry. This French film director who directed masterpieces such as “Warmth Contains Light” and “Scientific Sleep” is famous for his fantasy style. And this film also incorporates the “Gondry-Esque” technique that the two Gondry brothers have worked together for many years-this unique and highly recognizable technology combines stop-motion animation, bullet time, visual effects, and highly recognizable scene design. , continuous footage and freeze-frame techniques. In addition, the Gondry brothers are also responsible for the set design, continuing the scene in the short film, placing a “growth house” in the central square of the Louvre Museum, and each room represents a stage in a child’s life. The brothers drew inspiration from childhood memories, including the bedroom they shared, the excitement of decorating it, and old wallpaper covered in graffiti.
Music planning and live performance
After Kendrick Lamar sat in the auditorium and groaned in the last season, this season “unexpectedly” invited “Spanish Queen” Rosalía Vila Tobella as a music planner and guest performer, but this choice is also reasonable. The music of this Spanish female singer is rooted in the “Spanish national quintessence” Flamenco Flamenco. It combines national characteristics with music elements such as electronic, R&B and Hip-Hop to create a highly recognizable alternative music style, so it is also popular among fans. Known as “Witch”.
I believe everyone is familiar with the group photo of the “Nike Team” in 2020. Rosalia was squatting next to Virgil at that time, and it can be seen that the two have a close personal relationship. Born in 1993, she has won the Latin Grammy Award eight times. She has cooperated with big-name musicians such as Travis Scott, Lil Baby, Pharrell Williams, and J Balvin. Hispanic musicians on the cover. It seems very reasonable to invite this old friend of Virgil, who has blossomed in the fields of fashion and music, to participate in the creation.
The innocence and surrealism of this season’s Louis Vuitton show venues recalled Virgil Abloh’s first LV menswear collection, a tribute to The Wizard of Oz, also about innocent children experiencing the outside world for the first time. After opening the first guest designer, how will Louis Vuitton continue this multi-party cooperation model? Or are you still looking for a new creative director? We will wait and see, but what is certain is that LV is once again at the forefront of the times in its exploration of cutting-edge artists and creators.
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