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Nensi Dojaka has long been informed by sensuality, so it only made sense that her return to London Fashion Week focused on what’s most intimate in our style. Beneath the architectural corsetry and floating organza of her Spring/Summer 2025 show—her first in two seasons—Dojaka debuted a collaboration with Calvin Klein, the undisputed king of underwear.
The classically minimal brand blended well with Dojaka’s, reclaiming the empowering sexiness that came to be a brand signifier for both labels. Naturally, one informed the other, and Dojaka admits to turning to Calvin Klein for inspiration. “It’s a brand I’ve always loved and always referenced,” Dojaka shares with Harper’s Bazaar. “It was about bringing my point of view and combining it to that of Calvin Klein—that minimal beauty of [the brand] that is done with beautiful precision.”
Joe Maher
Her vision came to life by way of sheer black bodysuits and harnessed burgundy bras, each of which were showcased among cropped jackets and low-rise trousers with revealing thigh slits. Flowering ruffled dresses and airy, pleated capes also made their way down the runway. Together, the pieces created a balance (or at times, tension) between strength and softness, echoing the inspiration behind the runway collection. For Dojaka, her return to London Fashion Week is less of a comeback and more of an evolution.
Joe Maher
Joe Maher
Aside from an expansion of styles, the designer says there’s also growth in who the collection is for. Alongside pops of color and strategic cutouts, the collection is designed to be flexible for more body types. “The small details of the past are now translated on a bigger scale, creating movement, which is quite new to the brand,” Dojaka adds. “It’s about framing the fantasy in a more realistic context.”
Joe Maher
Joe Maher
Of course, there’s also no brand more familiar with bringing fantasy to life than Calvin Klein, which has tapped the likes of Kate Moss and most recently, Jeremy Allen White, for its legendary campaigns. Klein’s collaboration with Dojaka, however, isn’t based on the same celebrity illusion. Instead, the structured intimates reflect both the fluidity and rigidity inside the bodies on which they’re worn.
“Calvin was a an easy ‘yes’ for me because I really wanted the opportunity to work with their amazing and very knowledgeable team on creating underwear that was for all women, keeping the delicate design and combining it with their impeccable developments,” says Dojaka. After all, designing underwear—a natural second skin—seems to channel the realistic feel she speaks of the most.
Maya Ernest is an editor who covers everything from the latest fashion news to features that investigate personal style, social media trends, and thoughtful consumption.
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